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Nanyea Restaurant

and Coffee House

By Scott Millsop

Nanyea was one of the first spots we visited when Ethnosh was restarted in 2023, after the pandemic. It set the stage well for what was to follow on our foodie adventure. Sofi is the proprietor and she brought us all into the notion that dining was more than just food. Her intention with the Nanyea Restaurant is to build a community, one that involves devotion to coffee, the presence of music, the pop of color. She offers an experience much like the one people have in Ethiopia, her native country. The original Nanyea was her grandmother, and it is her lively face that is the logo.

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Photos by Bobby Tewksbury

We’re accustomed to different flavor themes at Ethnosh, and you might wonder what is the taste profile of Ethiopian food. Let’s say subtle, in a word. Very flavorful but not spicy hot. Platters are served with Injira, which is a flat bread that is rolled up. It is airy. Spongy. And can be made Gluten Free. And it’s not just a side dish, it is central. The Ethiopian cuisine does not need silverware. We pick up bits of the different dishes with bits of Injira. So if you have found something hot, the Injira can balance it. A bean or vegetable dish simply becomes more savory when scooped up by a bit of Injira.
 

When we noshed here before, noshers were presented with more variety than they would imagine. The dining experience went beyond food and into fun. This time it will double. Nanyea has brought in a partner who serves Jamaican food. If Jerk Chicken comes to mind immediately you can expect a fine version of that and it is prepared by a Jamaican chef with long background. But that’s only one treat. Don’t overlook the soup!
 

We know you won’t overlook Vanessa, the proprietor for the Jamaican side of the house because she is energetic, enthusiastic and committed to the cause of bringing Jamaican culture to Dayton. She has worked as a model and a painter in the past, but cooking was always a passion. She brings a worldliness to the dinner celebration, but her point is the same as Sofi’s who says “when you cook it’s not by recipe, it’s by passion.”
 

We reminded Sofi that the last time we talked she said it was limiting to have a menu. She preferred inspiration. Both women got very animated in agreement with that idea. Cooking is art. Yes it is.
 

It’s interesting to see these cuisines come together. Ethiopian food comes out of deep culture. Jamaican food is more of a melting pot. Their citizens are from India, China, Europe and they bring all those culinary thoughts into the kitchen.
 

Both of these women are storytellers and both have good stories. Very different stories. Ask them to tell their stories. They want to have fun.
 

Rastafarianism is a leading religion in Jamaica. Its most revered figure is Haile Selassie, who was Emperor of Ethiopia. Jamaican food and culture are about connection, boldness, and joy. It treasures naturalism and reggae. They’re going to want us to dance.

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